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Then I hop on the back of his motorcycle and we drive to another lively bar where we smoke hookah and dance salsa. He invites me into a Cuban bar for a drink where we communicate via a hodgepodge of Spanish and Portuguese. (Um… No comment.)Īnd up walks a handsome, tall, dark-haired Brazilian man named Elio. One Saturday night I was walking around the streets of Ubud by myself with a bottle of Bintang. How weird is that? He also examined my friend and correctly identified that she had no kidney on her right side, which is true- she donated it when she was a teenager. *But then when I came back to Michigan and I discovered I have a gall bladder problem so the healer totally called that.
(Apparently people who have endured intense traumas like car accidents will howl and cry in reflexology.) He told me this was clear to him because I wasn’t writhing and screaming on the table. Overall he reported that I haven’t undergone a lot of pain in my life. The only one I didn’t agree with was my stomach.* At times it was agonizing.Īs Papa hit zones of my foot, he would observe, “Ah, you have bad neck.”īy the end, his diagnosis was scarily accurate- he had identified that I have problems with my neck, back and stomach. It turns out reflexology involves having a wooden mallet pounded into the sole of your foot to identify your maladies. Papa happens to be the resident reflexologist, and I eagerly asked him for a reflexology session. On my last night in Ubud I headed to Sandat Bali, a guesthouse and reflexology center run by a Balinese couple everyone calls Mama and Papa. The most worthwhile holistic pursuit I found in Bali was reflexology. I almost returned to Wayan’s shop the next day for a body reading but backed out when I read on TripAdvisor that the reading is a total ripoff and that there are rats scurrying around the house. which is like practically off the charts.) Um, thanks. She also handed us a sheet explaining that normal adults should chew 7-10 leaves and overweight adults should chew 11-15. Then Tutti brought over some leaves that she instructed us to chew. As we sipped the tea Tutti said that someday she wanted to be a healer like her mother. Tutti then made us a turmeric tea by grating turmeric root and mixing it with water. “The book came out nine years ago,” she said shyly. But soon Tutti came over and I couldn’t help but exclaim, “You’re so big!” when I saw a beautiful teenaged girl with black hair down her back instead of a little girl. The shop wasn’t what I had expected I was shocked by its filthy and cluttered state. In Eat, Pray, Love Wayan is a kind-hearted divorced healer who runs a healing shop with her 9-year old daughter, Tutti. Ketut Liyer is a very sweet old man but is very advanced in age- and 350,000 rupiah is a steep price to learn you are very beautiful and will have two babies.
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I really hate to say this, but I do want to be frank with any of my readers- um, I wouldn’t advise getting a palm reading from Ketut. You lucky, much success.” (Though instead of a divorce he predicted she would lose all of her money for being too generous.) He then gave my friend a nearly identical fortune. When I laid eyes on Ketut he was exactly as I had imagined a small, wizened Balinese man with a broad smile and only a few teeth.Īfter a brief wait, Ketut held my palm in his hand as he predicted I would have two babies, enjoy much success in my career and someday get divorced. Which felt a little… presumptuous and invasive, to be honest. When I arrived at Ketut’s compound the family promptly asked me to pay 350,000 rupiah (about $30 USD) for a palm reading. In her memoir Elizabeth Gilbert writes extensively about Ketut Liyer, an elderly Balinese medicine man who lives in Ubud. Meeting a Handsome Brazilian (Seriously).